Tuesday, 12 August 2014

Peplum Tutorial

I've been meaning to make a peplum top for some time after seeing them all over lots of blogs as they're so pretty and feminine and add a nice detail to an otherwise plain and simple top.

It's easy to make a peplum to add to your favourite dress or top pattern.  Here's the basic instructions:-
(apologies for the mix of fabric in the photos - one is a test but the instructions remain the same).

Step 1
Measure around the pattern at the part the peplum will be attached to.  If your peplum willl be a continual piece remember to take out the side seam allowances.  Remember to inlcude any allowances where your peplum has a seam, i.e. back seam.  On this pattern I am adding in a midriff panel with only one back seam and the peplum will be attached to the bottom of that so have measured around this.

Step 2
Once you have the total measurement, and in this instance it was 78 cm, divide this figure by 3.14 to find the radius of the circle that you will need to create the top of the peplum.   So for a 78 cm circumference the radius will be 24.8 cm.

Step 3
Fold a piece of paper twice so you have 4 layers of paper and use the measurements to create a cone shape, or quarter circle, the point being the centre of your circle.  One you have your quarter circle pin it to your fabric, which should also be folded twice to give four layers of fabric, and mark out the cone shape.

Step 4
Then decide how deep you want your peplum to be and mark from the edge of the quarter circle to the required depth, again in a quarter circle.  Remember to add in hem allowance here. 

Step 5
You can then cut around your cone as above and around the second marked line giving you the peplum (folded in four).

Here's your peplum folded once.....

... and here's the finished peplum ready to add to your top.  Here the peplum is just to be cut up the centre back to give the centre back seam

If you'd like a graduated peplum just measure the halfway point (after step 5) of the semi circle and decide on how deep you'd like the front (or the back) to be and grade the circle so the distances and grading are equal. Here I graded from 10 cm at the side to 6 cm at the front so the mid distance as shown here .....

... would be a depth of 8 cm.  To get the mid distance between  just fold the edge into the centre as shown.

.. and here's the graded peplum ready to be attached.

I'm currently working on my second Lekala 4276 which will be a top, hence the differing fabric in the photos and will unveil this soon.  The graded peplum is from a test fabric which is an old duvet cover thrifted for the purpose of muslining - a lot of fabric and cheap at £2.99 - another tip!!

I hope you found this useful.

Happy sewing

Linda x

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